Tucked away above Local Foods in the former Eau Tour space, Milton’s has made a striking entrance into Houston’s culinary scene. Opened on September 27, this new Italian eatery from Benjy Levit, alongside Local Foods Group culinary director Seth Siegel-Gardner and executive chef Kent Domas, breathes fresh life into classic Italian fare. The atmosphere is vibrant, balancing a modern aesthetic with a warm, inviting vibe, making it feel like the perfect neighborhood restaurant. It’s evident from the moment you step inside that the staff is genuinely passionate about the experience they’re crafting.

We kicked off our meal with the pickle-fried onions, a whimsical twist on a familiar favorite. Imagine onion rings on steroids: these are lightly pickled red onions, battered and fried to golden perfection, served with a luxurious caviar crème fraîche. The delicate tang of the pickling process allows the natural flavor of the onion to shine, making this dish a delightful start.

Next, we dove into the Sicilian Tar Tar, an exceptional dish that offers a refreshing take reminiscent of ceviche. Combining tuna, salmon, scallops, capers, shallots, chives, and pickled pearl onions, it’s a perfect balance of flavors. Served on a crunchy focaccia crostini, this dish was not only visually stunning but also a testament to the kitchen’s finesse.

For the pasta course, we opted for the Lobster & Scallop Ravioli, elegantly presented in a shellfish broth and finished with caviar and basil oil. Overall it was rich yet light, although the ocean’s flavors were a bit overpowering.

However, the standout of the night was undoubtedly the 100-layer lasagna. A rotating special, this iteration featured duck confit, foie gras, and spicy tomato sauce. One might expect a hefty plate for a dish claiming a hundred layers, but what arrived was sheer perfection. Each slice, expertly griddled to create a crispy cheese bottom, revealed layers of richness and complexity that left us buzzing. We loved it so much we decided to order another slice to go but by 7pm the lasagna had sold out, a testament to its brilliance.

We also ordered the Chicken Parm, a dish I usually bypass in restaurants since it is a fairly basic dish that doesn’t lend itself to a lot of creativity. But our attentive server convinced me otherwise, and I was pleasantly surprised. This rendition was spectacular—juicy free range chicken, a well-seasoned crispy crust, the perfect ration of Parmesan, and a generous side of Bolognese pasta. The portion was so ample that I found myself looking forward to lunch the next day.

Dessert was a glorious olive oil cake that defied expectations. Moist and fragrant with the perfect crunchy crust, it was served with whipped cream and orange slices. The cake struck the perfect balance – not too sweet and not too citrusy. This simple yet extraordinary dish left us utterly satisfied.

Milton’s cocktail program deserves equal praise, with a focus on Italian and bourbon-based cocktails. The bartenders are creative, eager to craft drinks tailored to your preferences. I requested a concoction featuring vodka, citrus, passionfruit, and sweetness, and they delivered a refreshing cocktail that perfectly matched my taste.

In every aspect, from the innovative menu to the enthusiastic service, Milton’s exceeds expectations. It’s clear that the team here is passionate about food and hospitality, making this a must-visit spot in Rice Village. I can’t recommend Milton’s highly enough—this is a culinary experience that lingers long after the last bite.
