In the heart of Tokyo, a metropolis brimming with energy, modernity, and unparalleled cultural sophistication, lies a gastronomic paradise that showcases the best of the culinary world. The city, known as one of the most expensive on the globe, boasts 212 Michelin-starred restaurants, more than any other city in the world. This makes choosing difficult, but it also ensures that you enjoy an incredible meal. I invite you to join me on a tour of my recent trip to Tokyo.

Esquisse: Franco-Japanese Fusion at Its Finest
We began by treating ourselves to dinner at Esquisse, a sublime French restaurant with two Michelin stars in the distinguished Chuo, Ginza district. This culinary temple, ranked 67th among Asia’s best, features a six-course tasting menu that redefines Franco-Japanese fusion. Each dish, a masterpiece, reflects the concept of “Esquisse” (meaning a sketch in French), merging art and cuisine in a harmony of complex flavors. Under the guidance of chef Lionel Beccat, trained as a painter, the experience transcends gastronomy, offering dishes that are a delight both visually and taste-wise, achieving a perfect balance between subtlety and depth.

The evening was enhanced by sommelier Eji Wakabayashi, whose wine knowledge perfectly complemented each bite, and by the charismatic maître d’, Lionel Lavernhe, whose warmth stole our hearts and made us feel at home. From the first toast with champagne and an amuse-bouche of Sheep’s Milk Curd with Hassaku (a Japanese citrus similar to an orange), to the homemade bread options and the sequence of 5 savory and 2 sweet dishes, every element was exceptional. Dishes like the Turnip with Black Truffle and the Duck Magret stood out, not to mention the desserts, including a reinvented Rice Pudding with Olive Ice Cream. The pairings, from a Japanese Chardonnay from Kusaka Vineyards to a Syrah from Anthill Farms, were simply spectacular.

Esquisse not only celebrates the fusion of French and Japanese cuisine but elevates it to new heights, offering an experience that justifies every yen spent, remaining in memory long after the last taste.

Sushi Kanesaka: A Curious Symphony of Sushi
A visit to Tokyo demands immersion in its iconic sushi scene. Sushi Kanesaka in the Ginza district is a must for sushi aficionados, especially those interested in Edomae tradition. This style, the original Japanese ‘fast food,’ is based on the simplicity of combining fresh fish with vinegared rice, although Sushi Kanesaka elevates this concept to a gourmet experience, recognized with two Michelin stars.

The restaurant’s intimate setup, with only 18 seats at the counter, allows diners to witness culinary mastery in action. Under the direction of Shiji Kanesaka, whose dedication to the art of sushi transcends borders—as demonstrated by the recent opening and success of a sister establishment in London that earned its first Michelin star after 7 months—we opted for the ‘Extreme Omakase’ menu. Omakase is a Japanese phrase that literally means “I’ll leave it up to you” and this choice immersed us
in an endless sequence of delights, where the chef exercises full freedom to surprise with seasonal specialties.

The preparation is a spectacle in itself, from the meticulous grating of fresh wasabi to the surgical precision in fish cutting, all designed to enhance the purity of flavor without excessive distractions. Each piece of sushi, balanced with just the right notes of wasabi and rice vinegar, invites an appreciation of complexity in its most subtle form.

Although certain dishes, like the Large Clam and Whole Squid, challenged my personal palate with their boldness, excellence shone in selections like the umami-rich Sea Bream, impeccably tender Toro, and an exceptional Spiny Lobster. However, it was a Scallop Wrapped in Toasted Seaweed that captured my admiration, offering overflowing creativity in a perfect bite.

Despite the uniqueness of the experience and the undeniable artistry behind each dish, reflecting on the value of the experience in relation to its cost leaves me doubtful about a return. In Tokyo, the splendor of sushi can be explored at more accessible prices, making Sushi Kanesaka a memorable luxury, but not indispensable.

Soba Shiki: A Casual Celebration of Tradition
During a spontaneous lunch exploration, we found ourselves at Soba Shiki, located in the multifaceted Tokyo Garden Terrace Kioicho, a 36-story complex offering a mix of offices, shops, restaurants, and the impressive hotel where we stayed, ‘The Gallery Prince Tokyo.’ Soba Shiki stands out for its handmade soba noodles, prepared using the Nihachi method, a traditional Japanese technique achieving a harmonious blend of 80% buckwheat and 20% wheat flour, offering a soft and unique texture, contrasting with purely buckwheat soba noodles.

We decided to try the Soba with ground meat, served with a raw egg yolk, ginger, and wasabi, a combination to mix and enjoy with the noodles. The experience was undoubtedly exceptional, marking a before and after in our appreciation for soba. We accompanied our main dish with Shrimp and Vegetable Tempura, perfectly fresh and crispy, and irresistible Japanese Meatballs, also accompanied by raw egg yolk and soy-based sauce, so sublime that we ordered them three times.

We couldn’t miss a selection of beers and sake in our tasting, but the star discovery was the Umeshu (plum wine) served with sparkling water, offering a refreshing and deliciously bubbly version of a ‘spritzer’ that became my favorite drink.

Although the price was somewhat high for lunch, this seems to be a constant in Tokyo, but it is well worth it for the quality and experience. This unplanned encounter with Soba Shiki became my favorite lunch in the city, a reminder that the most memorable culinary adventures are often the least expected.

SG Club: Cocktails and Creativity
Exploring a city’s nightlife is immersing oneself in its soul, and Tokyo, with its world-renowned bars, offers an unforgettable experience in this regard. Our adventure led us to the SG Club in the Shibuya district, acclaimed not only as number 36 in the world but also 14 in Asia. This establishment stands out for its dual concept: downstairs, Sip offers an exclusive atmosphere, while upstairs, Guzzle invites a more relaxed experience. This play on words reflects the versatility of the SG (Sip and Guzzle) Club, living up to its name.

After a 30-minute wait, we entered Sip, an elegant yet somewhat crowded space, exuding an atmosphere that combines the best of Manhattan with distinctively Tokyo touches. The young and energetic clientele congregates here in search of exceptional, out-of-the-ordinary cocktails.

It was in this vibrant setting that I discovered ‘Cheek to Cheek is Back,’ a cocktail that redefines excellence: a seductive mix of Bacardi rum, berries, balsamic, yogurt, and mascarpone. This drink, the best I’ve tasted in Asia, took my appreciation for mixology to a new level, to the point of not leaving a drop in the glass. Without a doubt, the wait was worth it for such an elixir.

In conclusion, this experience reaffirms that part of Tokyo’s charm lies in its rich culinary diversity and its ability to balance tradition with innovation. From cozy noodle restaurants to the highest cuisine, the city offers and guarantees one of the most vibrant and memorable culinary and entertainment experiences possible.