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Niche, a fine dining restaurant in the lobby of the Acacia Hotel in Condado, was once a cherished dining spot before the pandemic shook the culinary world. Under the guidance of Chef David Chaymol and his sous chef Carlos Morales, Niche had gained quite a following since its inception in September 2015. However, like many others, the restaurant succumbed to the pandemic’s challenges, leading to its closure in March 2020.

Chef Chaymol’s post-pandemic journey took an interesting turn as he ventured into a successful at-home dining experience, offering gourmet meals complete with decor, waitstaff, music, and drinks. This alternative culinary adventure garnered rave reviews from patrons, including myself. But that’s not what we are here to talk about. Back to Niche…now helmed by Chef Carlos Morales, which reopened its doors three months ago.

As we walked into the new Niche, it’s like time stood still and we were transported back to early 2020 when the most challenging part of visiting this restaurant was scoring a reservation in the tiny space. Niche looks just like it did pre-pandemic and it still exudes romance and intimacy, featuring just seven tables and a captivating bar.

On the night of our visit, however, the air conditioning was not functioning which made the dining experience less than comfortable. To counter the heat, we indulged in cocktails crafted by the mixologist behind the bar. I opted for the Spiced Paloma, a delightful concoction of tequila, habanero syrup, grapefruit juice, and lime juice. Alongside, we explored the well-curated but concise wine menu and opted for a perfect Tempranillo.

The menu bore a striking resemblance to the previous Niche, offering familiar favorites like the Cannellini Bean Bisque, which we eagerly started with. Topped with a truffle emulsion and served with homemade Caribbean toast, it delivered on all fronts. The delicacy of the creamy white bean soup remained as exquisite as remembered. However, what truly intrigued me about the menu were the new additions that offer a Puerto Rican flair.

For our appetizers, we sampled the Ahi Tuna Tartare, featuring shallots, pine nuts, basil, and Thai Honey Sauce over seaweed salad. Accompanied by a toasted seaweed aioli and crispy breadfruit (pana) tostones, it was fresh but fell short on flavor, requiring a stronger presence of the Thai honey sauce or seaweed aioli.

The Foie gras, served with sweet caramelized onions, pickled mustard seeds, and brioche bread, was a revelation. The foie gras was impeccably rich, tender, and buttery, complemented by the sweet onions and spicy mustard seeds. However, the brioche slices proved to be a mismatch—limp, cold, and detracting from the dish’s excellence.

Moving on to the main courses, the shrimp Mofongo was an unexpected gem since you don’t usually find mofongo in a fine dining establishment. This is one of the new additions to the menu that Chef Carlos has added. The soft, garlicky Mofongo paired beautifully with perfectly seasoned shrimp bathed in a complex sambuca sauce and sun-dried heirloom tomatoes and shallots.

Another interesting plate was the Scallop Pasta with a generous serving of scallops atop mafalde pasta with wild mushrooms and pesto béchamel sauce. It showcased a medley of flavors, with the pesto’s vibrancy cutting through the richness of the béchamel sauce. Finally, we tried the Veal Osso Bucco, served over creamy polenta and topped with a sauce vierge. This plate exuded a delightful simplicity that allowed the veal to shine through the harmonious blend of textures and flavors.

For dessert, we indulged in the Tembleque, a traditional Puerto Rican coconut pudding. While the anticipation was high, the dessert didn’t quite meet expectations. The consistency was denser than expected, lacking the characteristic jiggle that gives it its name.

In conclusion, Niche’s revival deserves recognition, earning it a rating of 4 out of 5 crowns. While some minor hiccups marred the experience, it’s clear that the restaurant is finding its footing once again. The return of such a small establishment post-pandemic is a hopeful sign for the culinary scene, and I eagerly await the exciting future Niche holds.