Nestled in the unassuming Spring Branch neighborhood of Houston lies a culinary gem that has garnered considerable buzz in recent times—Tatemó. Named after the Mexican culinary technique “tatemar,” which translates to roasting, toasting, or grilling, Tatemó beckons food enthusiasts to venture beyond the confines of Houston’s inner loop for an extraordinary dining experience. Admittedly, upon my arrival, I was taken aback by the location and absence of even a sign on the door. Yet, what awaited inside was a cozy, intimate haven, warmly illuminated by candles adorning each table, creating an ambiance that reminds me of a special family gathering at grandma’s house. This enchanting restaurant, albeit petite, accommodates just 14 guests at tables and four at the bar, making for an intimate atmosphere, although it can get lively with music and conversations.

The journey of Tatemó began in a tiny apartment, where its chefs painstakingly honed the art of crafting tortillas. Their expertise soon attracted a fervent following, leading to an invitation to showcase their tortillas at the Urban Harvest Farmers Market. As their popularity continued to surge, they ventured into the Montrose neighborhood with a ghost kitchen shared with Underground Creamery, an ice cream shop, where they offered exclusive tasting menu experiences for small groups. With their devoted following and unwavering commitment, they amassed the resources to establish Tatemó on Dacoma, just a year and a half ago—a testament to their culinary dedication.

The excellence that characterizes Tatemó extends to its service. Attentive without overwhelming, the servers excel at explaining each dish’s intricate details. Their inviting demeanor fosters a comfortable, relaxed dining atmosphere. The diligent servers uphold the exacting standards expected by Chef-owner Emmanuel Chavez, who insists on nothing less than perfection. Their dedication is palpable, as every element of the dining experience, from preparation to presentation, exudes freshness and attention to detail.

Securing a reservation at Tatemó is a breeze using Tock. One notable aspect of dining here is the prepayment system, which includes gratuity in advance. Additionally, it’s essential to remember that Tatemó operates as a BYOB establishment, as they do not possess a liquor license. However, with the help of services like Uber Eats, you can have a carefully chosen bottle of wine delivered right to your table, even if you forget to bring one like I did.

Tatemó offers an exquisite 7-course tasting menu that strikes a harmonious balance between creative innovation and traditional Mexican flavors, making it a gastronomic adventure to savor. The culinary voyage commences with a tantalizing tuna toro ceviche crowned with thinly sliced jicama. Accompanied by sweet potato, yuzu aioli, and a pico mix with daikon radish root for a hint of kick, the dish is elevated with a leche de tigre sauce. A crispy tostada, crafted from conico rosado corn, lends a delicate pink hue and a subtle sweetness. The ceviche is a masterpiece meant to be savored on the tostada, with the remaining leche de tigre sipped straight from the bowl.

Next we enjoyed the Gordita, a vegetarian delight that embraces the flavors of bollita amarillo maize from Oaxaca, stuffed with hibiscus machaca—an inventive take on traditional machaca, usually made with dried meat. The dish features charred avocado crema, queso fresco, a kale chip, yuzu aioli, and exquisite cilantro flowers. On the side, two salsas await—the spicy jalapeno and serrano-infused salsa verde and a savory salsa roja infused with chicharron. It was exquisite.

The third plate is a Quesadilla which is reminiscent of an empanada. It boasts masa crafted from Conico Azul, giving it a rich, dark hue. Inside, you’ll find stringy Oaxacan cheese. Accompanying this dish is a beautifully presented sauce of huitlacoche, a sporous fungus that flourishes on corn, imbuing it with earthy, smoky, and nutty flavors—often referred to as the Mexican truffle. This unique sauce is garnished with crema and caviar, transforming the quesadilla into a sensory revelation.

The Enmolada, served next, presents a plantain based tortilla, subtly sweet, cradling a delectable filling of Mole Negro, black bean puree, potato, tomatoes, and tender chunks of seared beef tongue (lengua). The interplay of deep mole with hints of sweetness, juxtaposed with crispy lengua, delivers an extraordinary experience.

 

The Farro Verde followed featuring olotillo blanco maize from Oaxaca, known for its blooming effect as it absorbs cooking liquid—a process akin to pozole. The puree combines hoja santa, cilantro, and epazote, creating a pungent yet captivating flavor profile. Accompanied by green peas, squash blossoms, olive oil, and lime, it offers an intriguing combination, although admittedly, I found the flavors overwhelming.

The last savory dish was a vegetarian taco featuring crunchy marinated eggplant. The eggplant is marinated in yogurt and birria rub, then fried in a masa tempura made with Topo Chico, imparting perfect crispiness. It’s served with a sensational peanut puree and topped with walnut salsa Negra—a smoky blend of walnuts, chile guajillo, chile arbol, and plumb. The addition of plumb offers a touch of sweetness to the smoky chiles, creating an unforgettable symphony of flavors.

The dessert at Tatemó is equally enchanting. The Masa Cake, drawing inspiration from Hernan Cortes’s arrival in Tenochtitlan in 1519, pays homage to the legend that the Aztecs greeted him with sweet cakes. The cake is adorned with pepitas, elote puree, fresh strawberries, and nixtamalized strawberries—resulting from a process involving soaking strawberries in sake and honey, imbuing them with density and candied appeal. Hoja Santa ice cream from Underground Creamery adds the finishing touch, with a subtle drizzle of olive oil and a pinch of salt.

And to conclude the meal, a delicate cookie awaits. A thin, fried Buñuelo dipped in chocolate, is topped with sea salt and toasted Chicotana—an Oaxacan ant harvested during heavy rains and then toasted on a comal. These unique additions infuse the cookie with a nutty essence, rendering it an irresistible treat—one that could easily prompt you to indulge in a dozen more.

 

Tatemó stands as one of the most innovative and creative Mexican dining establishments in Houston. With a seasonal menu that promises fresh experiences with each visit, I eagerly anticipate returning to explore the next chapter. The dishes showcased a masterful fusion of Mexican flavors, attesting to Tatemó’s unwavering commitment to culinary excellence. The only upgrade needed is a wine selection and some creative cocktails. Don’t let its inconspicuous location deter you; leaving the loop is worth for an unforgettable dining adventure. The next best thing requires purchasing a ticket to Mexico City. Tatemó earns 4.5 out of 5 crowns.

Details: Tatemó, 4740 Dacoma St Ste F, Houston, TX 77092 https://www.tatemohtx.com/ info@tatemohtx.com

Type of Food: Gourmet Mexican

Hours: Wednesday – Saturday 6pm-9pm

Reservations: Recommended via Tock

Prices: $$$$ = Tasting menu $125 plus $45 tip and other charges per person

Noise Level: Lively – Not always easy to carry a conversation

 

Parking: Lot in front