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In the heart of Polanco, the exclusive neighborhood in Mexico City, Aúna emerges as the latest addition to the culinary scene, inviting diners to embark on a journey of flavor and innovation. As we stepped into this gastronomic haven on a Friday night, we were immediately struck by its engaging concept—a captivating open kitchen in an open air setting where the symphony of cooking unfolds before your eyes. The name “Aúna,” derived from the Spanish word “aunar,” meaning to unite or come together, perfectly encapsulates the spirit of this culinary gem. With only two months of operation under its belt, Aúna has already carved a niche for itself, promising a memorable dining experience.

The restaurant’s architectural elegance seamlessly merges modernity and sophistication. The interior exudes a minimalist charm, with sleek lines and impeccable design choices, creating an inviting atmosphere. Interestingly, Aúna shares its culinary expertise with its sister café next door, bearing the same name and sharing a kitchen. The café offers a more casual dining experience from 8 am to 8 pm, a testament to the versatility of Aúna’s culinary offerings.

The attentive waitstaff, though at times bordering on being overly vigilant, reflects the establishment’s commitment to providing top-notch service. This eagerness to please, we suspect, stems from Aúna’s novelty and its ardent dedication to customer satisfaction.

Our journey began with a sensational array of starters that displayed Aúna’s creative prowess. The Oysters with citrus vinaigrette and green onion oil transported our taste buds. These plump Californian oysters, with their balanced brininess, were crowned with delicate calendula flower petals, imparting complexity and spice. The ginger-infused citrus vinaigrette was nothing short of spectacular.

Aguachile de callo, reminiscent of a scallop ceviche, featured crispy, lightly fried kale, and a sauce concocted from nopal, cucumber, nori seaweed, and pumpkin seed mayonnaise. This dish achieved the remarkable feat of being light, delicate, and complex all at once—a testament to the chef’s artistry.

However, it was the fried pumpkin flowers that stole our hearts. Stuffed with a delightful combination of local cheese and mushrooms seasoned with epazote, a pungent culinary herb, they were served with a guava chutney and a salsa macha. The infusion of guava imparted a unique and unforgettable touch to this outstanding dish.

While the starters had us raving, the main courses left us with mixed impressions. The Braised Short Rib was adorned with caramelized onions and topped by a sauce crafted from plums and jitomate, a wild, sweet heirloom tomato from Oaxaca.  Overall, this dish presented a dichotomy with some parts of the meat being dry, while the fattier sections were heavenly. The seasoning, however, was impeccable. The inclusion of tortillas for taco-making and a side of habanero salsa was a delightful accompaniment although it was surprising that the tortillas were served cold.

We also ordered the Roasted Chicken, prepared with onions, fingerling potatoes, masala sauce, and tzatziki. The waitstaff’s enthusiastic recommendation convinced us to give it a try. We were told that it’s prepared akin to Peking duck, with the skin separated for crispness, air-dried for 24 hours, and then roasted for 40 minutes. While the crispy skin lived up to its promise, the chicken itself failed to impress in terms of flavor. The flavor remained elusive and the sauces didn’t add the “wow” factor we expected.

However, the true star of the evening emerged with the dessert—a caramelized passion fruit custard that boasted a consistency akin to crème brûlée but far exceeded it in taste and complexity. Accompanied by a sandwich cookie, studded with delicate flowers, this dessert was an absolute revelation. The vanilla cookie concealed an intriguing filling made with xoconostle, a sour cactus fruit similar to a prickly pear. Mashing the cookie and savoring it with the passion fruit custard was a spectacular experience that shouldn’t be missed.

Aúna boasts a modest yet satisfying wine list, and our server’s recommendation of a lovely rosé champagne perfectly complemented our appetizers. We then ventured into the world of Mexican wine with a Cabernet Sauvignon from Casa Anza, a pairing that harmonized beautifully with our main courses.

While minor refinements may be needed in some aspects, there’s no denying Aúna’s commitment to uniting diverse elements to create unforgettable dining moments. There is no doubt that Aúna will continue to evolve under the guidance of Chef-Owner Jorge Vallejo, renowned for one of the best restaurants in the world, Quintonil. In the end, Aúna exemplifies the essence of its name, inviting diners to come together and unite in the celebration of culinary artistry. I give Aúna 4 out of 5 crowns.

 

Details: Auná, Anatole France 139 Polanco Polanco III Secc Miguel Hidalgo, 11540 Ciudad de México, CDMX.  55 9237 5157

Type of Food: Contemporary Mexican

Hours: Tuesday – Saturday: 1:30pm – 11:00pm Sunday: 1:30pm – 5:00pm.

Reservations: Recommended via Open Table

Prices: $$$ = Between $20-$45

Noise Level: Quiet – Easy to carry a conversation

Parking: Lot close by