Nancy’s Hustle, in the heart of Houston’s EADO neighborhood, welcomes you with a bright neon yellow sign, signaling your arrival to a world of culinary delights. Step inside, and you’ll find an ambiance reminiscent of your favorite neighborhood café, complete with the smooth sounds of jazz playing from an old-school reel-to-reel, setting the stage for an experience to delight the senses and the soul. With Chef Jason Vaughan at the helm, crafting daring flavor combinations, and General Manager Sean Jensen curating a wine list that champions natural wines, Nancy’s Hustle is a testament to the modern era of gastronomy.

From the moment we walked in, our reserved table beckoned, and the seamless service that followed was nothing short of perfection. Our server gracefully guided us through the menu, kicking off our culinary adventure with the Spicy Beef and Butter Dumplings. These little gems, served with sauerkraut, yogurt, dill, and a drizzle of chive oil, are best enjoyed in one glorious bite, releasing a burst of delectable juices. The Chilled Oysters marinated in escabeche offered a creative twist, with lightly steamed oysters crowned by a lively shallot escabeche. While intriguing, the assertive escabeche somewhat eclipsed the delicate nuances of the oysters.

Then came the Nancy Cakes, adorned with soft cultivated butter, smoked trout roe, and chives, stealing the show with their impeccable balance. The smokiness of the roe blended harmoniously with the subtly sweet butter, leading to a friendly battle at the table over the last bite.

For heartier fare, we sampled the Olive Oil-Poached Octopus, served alongside fingerling potatoes, capers, and smoked paprika. While the octopus was tender, the seasoning was subdued. But it was the grilled Texas Wagyu Tri-Tip, graced with beef fat sticky rice, fermented chili beurre blanc, and crispy shallots, which emerged as the evening’s shining star. As I savored each bite, I couldn’t help but draw a parallel to the jazz music playing softly in the background. The dish unfolded like a musical composition, with the crisped rice absorbing the deep richness of the beef fat, akin to the way musicians blend their individual notes into a harmonious whole. The crispy shallots provided a satisfying crunch, reminiscent of the subtle percussion accents in a jazz piece. I cannot stop thinking about the Wagyu melting in my mouth, much like a tune that lingers in the mind long after the final note has been played.

Our journey concluded with the Parmesan Cheesecake, accompanied by black pepper honey. The crustless, creamy cheesecake boasted complexity and balance, elevated by the flavors of parmesan. Regrettably, the honey was overwhelmed by an excess of cracked black peppercorn that brought an overwhelming punch and, well, got stuck in our teeth.

Nancy’s Hustle also offers an intriguing array of cocktails that are as unique as they are captivating. The Radio Roots, a blend of mezcal, amaro, cream sherry, and passionfruit, leaned more towards bitter than the expected fruitiness. The Greenpoint, their twist on the classic Old Fashioned, featuring rye, vermouth, genepy, and angostura, showcased the bar’s craftsmanship beautifully. However, it was the 20th Century, a fusion of vodka, oloroso sherry, white cacao, and lemon, that truly hit the spot. This elixir found a perfect balance, with citrus taking the lead and a subtle undercurrent of chocolate.

Overall, Nancy’s Hustle stands as a culinary gem where innovation plays in harmony with laid-back vibes. Nancy’s Hustle earns a solid 4.5 out of 5 crowns, a royal salute to its exceptional culinary artistry and impeccable service.

Details: Nancy’s Hustle, 2704 Polk St. A, Houston. https://www.nancyshustle.com 346-571-7931

Type of Food: Modern Bistro

Hours: Tuesday – Sunday 5PM – 11pm

Reservations: Recommended via Resy

Prices: $$$ = Around $15 to $40

Noise Level: Moderate – easy to carry a conversation